The Zhabdrung
Ngawang Namgyal was a prince-abbot of the Drukpa Kagyu school at Ralung in Tibet, recognised by his followers as the reincarnation of the school's great scholar Pema Karpo. When his claim was contested by a rival backed by the ruler of Tsang, he left Tibet in 1616 and went south into the valleys of what is now western Bhutan. Over the next three decades he defeated local rivals and repeated Tibetan invasions, and united the western valleys under a single government. He took the title Zhabdrung, "at whose feet one submits", and set up a dual system of government, with a religious head, the Je Khenpo, and a civil administrator, the Desi.
The dzongs he built at the main valleys, Simtokha, Punakha, Wangdue, Paro and others, were the instruments of that government: each combined a monastery, administrative offices and a fortress.
The dzong
Punakha stands on a spit of land where two rivers, the "father" Pho Chhu and the "mother" Mo Chhu, meet. A legend says that Padmasambhava foretold that a man named Namgyal would come to a hill shaped like an elephant, and the site was chosen accordingly. Building began in 1637. The dzong is about 180 metres long, with three courtyards: the first for administration, the others for the monastic community, with a central tower, the utse. Its walls rise from stone foundations, and its timber galleries, painted beams and gilded roofs are among the finest in Bhutan. A covered cantilever bridge crosses the river to the main gate.
Seat of government
The Zhabdrung died at Punakha in 1651, though his death was concealed for decades while successive regents governed in his name. His body was embalmed and is kept in the dzong's Machey Lhakhang, which only a few people may enter. Punakha remained the winter seat of the government and of the central monk body, which moves between Punakha in winter and Thimphu in summer to this day.
In 1907 Ugyen Wangchuck was chosen and crowned as the first hereditary king of Bhutan at Punakha, ending the system of Desis. The capital was moved to Thimphu in 1955. The royal wedding of the fifth king, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, took place in the dzong in 2011.
Fire and flood
The dzong has been damaged many times by fire, by earthquake in 1897, and by flood, most recently in 1994, when a glacial lake in the high Himalaya burst its banks and the Pho Chhu rose suddenly. It has been restored after each disaster, using traditional methods and builders.
Further reading
- Snellgrove, David. Indo-Tibetan Buddhism. Serindia, 1987
- Samuel, Geoffrey. The Origins of Yoga and Tantra. Cambridge University Press, 2008
- Lopez, Donald S. The Story of Buddhism. HarperSanFrancisco, 2001
See also
- The Drukpa theocracy of Bhutan — The Drukpa theocracy governed Bhutan from 1616 to 1907 under a dual system of religious and temporal authority established by the Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal.
- Vajrayana — Vajrayana is the tantric development of Mahayana Buddhism, using mantra, visualisation, ritual and initiation to pursue buddhahood by an accelerated path, dominant in Tibet and Himalayan Buddhism.
- Tibet — Tibet is a high-plateau region of Inner Asia, home to the seventh-to-ninth-century Tibetan Empire and to Tibetan Buddhist civilization, ruled after 1642 by the Dalai Lamas' Ganden Phodrang government and administered since the 1950s by China as the Tibet Autonomous Region.
This entry was last revised on 12 November 2026.